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Home/Range Bag/Articles/Shooting Tips - Part 1

Shooting Tips - Part 1
By Sean Murphy


Now that you have a pistol and some gear, lets look at the use of your tools. Due to the amount of information we will be covering, this article will be broken into a couple installments. Please take all of this information as A way, NOT the way. I want to make it known that this information is the technical aspect of shooting. There are two other factors involved; tactics and the mental facility to integrate tactics and the technical shooting pieces for a successful outcome. What is important is to find your own style that works efficiently to ensure your success with the use of firearms.
Grip/Stance
While we have the latest whiz-bang blaster and matching holster, we need to start off with a few basic points. By having a good grip and stance, you have an effective base level with which to build upon. Let's break this down and work from the ground up.

First, let us take a look at your stance. Start out with your feet about shoulder width apart. Position the foot opposite your dominant side forward a few inches. Bend your knees and lower your center of gravity. Get aggressive (see stance picture at right). A good trick for figuring this out is to take a few steps directly to the side. You'll notice that automatically your body is stabilizing itself by lowering your center of gravity into an aggressive posture. Use this natural reaction to your advantage.

Now that you have a good stance, we'll work on the actual grip. When you retrieve the gun from the holster, you want to put the web of your hand as high on the gun as possible. Some guns such as the Smith M&P and equipped 1911s have beavertails to facilitate this. Just remember that the goal for any gun is high as possible. Doing this facilitates a mechanical advantage to recoil. Next, wrap your lower three fingers around the grip beneath the trigger guard as high as possible. At this point the trigger finger should be pointed along the slide/frame OUTSIDE of the trigger guard. The grip should be firm but not crushing. This one-handed grip is great for single handed shooting or as a building block for a free-style grip.


Stance
When the other hand meets the gun, the thumb should run parallel to the ground and barrel alongside the frame. Doing this allows all four other fingers to be wrapped around the firing hand UNDER the trigger guard. The palm of your support hand will now fit nicely on the left side of the gun, filling the gap between your firing hand fingers and palm. You now lock your firing hand thumb over your support hand as an index point to repeat every time. This gives complete 360 degree containment on the pistol for aiding in recoil control. The tension of the supporting hand will greatly help with recoil control as well. More tension equals greater control. Crush this hand on the gun to help hold the muzzle down. (See figures Grip1-4) This gripping method is commonly referred to as the Enos-Leatham method; after two guys named Brian Enos and Robbie Leatham. In case you haven't heard of them, they've won a few matches.

(Fig. Grip-1)

(Fig. Grip-2)

(Fig. Grip-3)

(Fig. Grip-4)
For those wondering about your thumb and safeties, slide locks, etc, it depends on your chosen pistol. Pistols with an external frame mounted safety (1911 especially) should have the firing hand thumb riding on the safety. This prevents accidental engagement of the safety while firing. If you have a pistol with either any kind of slide release towards the back of the pistol (i.e. a Sig Sauer), try positioning your thumb below the release if shooting single handed or move it further over on the support hand. Doing this helps ensure the slide will lock open on an empty magazine.
Holster
Before we take a look at drawing from a holster, let me give you a few thoughts on holsters. My first recommendation is a holster made of Kydex. Cows are for making good steaks, not good holsters. Kydex holsters are impervious to the weather, especially in the humid South. These holsters are also smoother and faster on the draw as they do not grab at the gun like leather. Due to the myriad of holster options available to the shooter, the holster you choose should be positioned to be most advantageous for a faster, cleaner draw. By this, a straight canted holster will be the smoothest to the exact side of the body. This position allows the pistol to be pulled straight up and rotated outward in the easiest motion possible without creating an obtuse wrist angle. For someone with a canted holster, the gun should be positioned further back on the belt. Again, this is to facilitate the ease of the draw. To be honest, I haven't found one style to be any quicker than another. Since not everyone wears "tactical" pants all the time, it is important to remember that different styles of pants, shorts, and jeans have various belt loop configurations. While the 5.11's were designed with shooters in mind, not every set of pants will line up a holster and mag carriers in the same position. Two options: get the belt loops altered or find pants with belt loops in a position that does not interfere with the gear positioning. Another consideration is whether to get a belt loop or paddle holster. Paddle holsters are great for carry guns as they are very easy to put on and take off. Belt loop holsters are a more stable platform to draw from. The downside from a carry perspective is if you have to take your gun off, it is pretty obvious what you are doing. My preferences are for my carry guns to ride in a slightly canted paddle holster while my competition guns use a straight cant belt loop setup.
Drawing
Now that you have an understanding of how to hold a pistol and chosen a holster setup, we'll examine a good draw. The best way I've heard it explained was to imagine your arms as the pushrods on an old steam locomotive. When you make the conscious decision to draw, the hand on the side of the pistol will move to establish a firing grip (Figure Draw-1). It is important that the firing grip needs to be established before any other actions are taken. The only caveat is if there is a retention system such as on a duty holster that must be disengaged first. After a firing grip is made, pull the pistol upwards until it has cleared the holster. At this time, rotate the pistol towards the target and bring the gun to your upper chest area. While this is going on, your support will follow a similar motion on the other side by riding up the body to meet at the upper chest level. Merge your support hand to finish your grip (Figure Draw-2) and then drive the pistol to your natural extension point (Figure Draw-3). Along the way out, you should be picking up the front sight so that when the pistol reaches the end of its travel you can make a shot if necessary. This is done as one continuous motion.

(Fig. Draw-1)

(Fig. Draw-2)

(Fig. Draw-3)
The key to all of this, especially for newer shooters, is to get it done smoothly; even if it means slowing down. If is far more important to have a slightly slower draw with a perfect execution than a fast one that is sloppy. With regard to your timing, move full speed to the holster, half-speed at the holster and full speed bringing the gun out. This allows a fast draw but slowing down at the holster to get a good grip on the gun.

(Fig. Vest-1)

(Fig. Vest-2)

(Fig. Vest-3)
Once you have become comfortable with your drawing without concealment, start incorporating your concealment garment. Since the "tactical vest" is by far the most popular concealment option for an IDPA match, let's cover its usage. The draw will be the same except you need to clear the vest out of the way to start the process. To do this, make a hook/claw with your firing hand and pull the vest out of the way. When the vest is back, use your elbow to help pin the material back. This will give you a clear area to obtain your firing grip in the holster and finish the draw. (See figures Vest 1-4)

Even though I use the vest during IDPA, concealed carry is mainly under an un-tucked shirt. In some instances I do run my carry setup for IDPA matches and can still be competitive. The only difference is the shirt does not sweep back like the vest. If you do not have an open front garment, use your support hand to pull the bottom of the shirt up to your chest. This will give you a clear path to the gun in the holster, and position your support hand to merge with the pistol. (See figures CC 1-3)


(Fig. Vest-4)

(Fig. CC-1)

(Fig. CC-2)

(Fig. CC-3)

After you make the decision to re-holster your pistol, simply reverse your drawing motion. This helps reinforce the path of your draw as well as keep an efficient operating system with your handgun. For those that re-holster with two hands, STOP! If you find it necessary to re-holster with two hands because of your holster, get a new one. If it is because you can not see what is happening, look down. It is way too easy to poke an extra hole or two in your body from re-holstering a weapon because the unnecessary hand got in the way. Again, to re-holster reverse your draw motions by collapsing your arms, separating at the upper chest area, pivoting the gun down, and putting the gun straight in the holster. If necessary, look at what you are doing and be sure the gun is in the holster.

For those that are using a weapon with a manual safety, I highly recommend finding a point in your draw/holster process for engagement/disengagement. Think of this spot as an invisible barrier that when the gun goes out the safety is off and when coming back the safety is engaged. A common area for this is the upper chest area as the gun finishes its arc towards the target or is rotating downwards towards the ground for holstering. By building in a mental checkpoint, the gun will be ready to go when you need it and mechanically on safe when holstered...

Please email any questions to madcapmagician_24@hotmail.com

Sean Murphy

This article nor any parts of it are not to be reprinted without the permission of the author.


...TO BE CONTINUED PART 2 COMING SOON!

Sean Murphy (IDPA A27136) is an IDPA Master Class shooter in the Stock Service Pistol (SSP), the Custom Defensive Pistol (CDP) and the Enhanced Service Pistol (ESP) divisions.

 
 
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The 4 rules of gun safety
1. The Gun Is Always Loaded!
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4. Keep Your Finger Off The Trigger Until Your Sights Are On The Target!
 
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